Artist Sofia Barton explores the locations in the North East of England connected to South Asian heritage.
1. Quayside Market, Newcastle upon Tyne
The historic quayside market in Newcastle upon Tyne began in 1736 when it was recorded as a fair. Nowadays, this vibrant weekly bazaar attracts foodies, art lovers and vintage shoppers. People have been visiting the quayside market to enjoy the incredible views of the river Tyne for generations.
My dad started his first job at the market, employed by a man named Yusuf Shaqqat, selling different fabrics and rugs. Throughout history, textiles have played an important role in the social, cultural, and economic life of South Asians. Cotton, as well as many dye plants, are native to the Indian subcontinent.
My mother and grandmother were both seamstresses, sewing salwar kameez and other clothing. So, naturally, my dad joined a group of South Asian entrepreneurial men who had immigrated from the Punjab and earned their living by selling different textiles at marketplaces and shops.
The market has always held a place in my heart for being one of cultural exchange and finding something new. My dad always had great stories to tell about his time working there. He’d spend his earnings on different foods and books, and once, he even paid to have a Polaroid taken with a monkey.
2. Wellington Square, Stockton-on-Tees, County Durham
I’m a South Asian multidisciplinary artist based in the North East who loves to work with themes of hidden history and shared cultural heritage. Arc Stockton commissioned me to paint a mural at Wellington Square in Stockton-on-Tees. My design is called ‘Unity’ and painted in marine blues and vibrant turquoise, tying in with its shipbuilding history.
My inspiration for the palette came from vibrant Islamic architecture that my parents loved in the Punjab. The vibrant turquoise blue signifies the universe’s impenetrable depths and the mystical qualities of water.
I was also inspired by art deco, especially with the nearby Grade II listed Stockton Globe theatre, the geometrically driven design taking a very loose form of ornamentation found in Indian architecture.
The 2 hands joined in the mural’s centre represent community and friendship. I remember when I was painting this up on a ladder, there were a lot of friendly people greeting and encouraging me, with someone even offering me a cuppa as I was painting this aptly named mural.
Sitting on the River Tees, Stockton-on-Tees once thrived as a bustling port, sending wool and wine on journeys across the land. Then, as the 17th century waned, a new pulse quickened the town’s heart: the booming shipbuilding industry.
Stockton-on-Tees has the broadest High Street in England, which runs from north to south, with the River Tees just to its east. Wellington Square is Stockton’s Shopping Centre in the centre of town.
3. Rajah Restaurant, Cloth Market, Newcastle upon Tyne
Wahiduddin Ahmed Kutub opened the first Indian restaurant in the North East on Cloth Market in 1965, introducing many to their first ever curry.
Due to racial tensions in the region, he also became a campaigner for social justice and racial equality. The Bangladeshi community leader established the Tyne Wear Community Relations Council and served as its chairman from 1975 to 1983.
He became the chairman of the Northumbria Police Communities Group, a governor of 3 schools, and a member of the city council’s housing and economic development committees.
He also played a considerable role in Muhammad Ali’s visit to South Shields in 1977, where Ali and his then new wife Veronica saw their marriage blessed at the Al Azhar mosque in Laygate. Kutub was appointed to the Home Secretary’s council on Racial Relations in 1978.
This trailblazer not only introduced the first Indian food to many local taste buds, but also greatly contributed to equality and welfare in the North East and beyond.
4. Streets of Gresham, Middlesbrough
Middlesbrough is less than 200 years old and grew as a booming Victorian town. In 1853, it proudly declared its motto ‘Erimus’, which means ‘We shall be’ in Latin.
The rich history of Middlesbrough can be traced back to its humble beginnings as a port, which grew with the coal, iron, steel and ship industries. However, Middlesbrough was the first major British town and industrial target to be bombed during the Second World War.
The steel-making capacity and railways for carrying steel products were obvious targets. The town needed a lot of rebuilding, and as a result, much of central Middlesbrough was redeveloped. The town took on a whole new look.
The area of Gresham was originally a part of the Victorian housing expansion of the town in the 1880s. It wasn’t part of the town that was rebuilt, and after the decline in industrialism, the terraced housing became cheaper, attracting immigrants of South Asian origin. They brought with them more diversity and an ever-expanding community.
One of the earliest South Asians who moved to the area was Dr Chirag Din in 1925. He moved to Middlesbrough with his English wife, Florence, who was a nurse. In 1933, he opened the first medical practice on Kensington Road and, in 1937, he opened a second practice on Linthorpe Road, close to Gresham Road.
He was one of several family members who had come to England since the 1890s to work as herbalists and medics. Through this history, we can place South Asians in the medical profession in England, long before the NHS was formed.
Many people reside in Gresham today, with a multicultural populace, and the area remains part of the town’s regeneration project.
To celebrate Middlesbrough and the nostalgia in the community, I designed some Indian Matchbox artwork for Middlesbrough Council. They explore the memories of the post-development of the town, including a toy shop called Romer Parish, the opening of the football stadium, luxurious bath houses, and the community food festival. These are publicly displayed on Wilson Street on aluminium plates.
5. Yemeni at South Shields
The port town of South Shields holds a unique place in English history, harbouring the first permanent Middle Eastern community formed by Yemeni sailors in the late 19th century.
Seated at docks built for the British Empire, Somali, Yemeni, and Malaysian sailors found temporary respite from the churn of steamships in South Shields.
From the mid-19th century, Arabs took on roles as ‘firemen’ on ships at Aden, where they repeatedly shovelled coal into the ship’s furnace. These jobs were difficult and insecure, and many experienced being ignored and rejected by British seamen.
Sparked anxieties fuelled by economic hardship and competition for dwindling jobs ignited tensions in the local area after the First World War. In 1919, a dispute over employment issues erupted into the first recorded Yemeni riot at Mill Dam.
The employment of Arab seamen living in South Shields increased during the First World War in order to replace British merchant seamen drawn into the armed forces. 700 Arabs lost their lives as a result.
But when the troops returned after the conflict, the perception that foreigners were ‘stealing’ jobs became a trigger for the rioting and attacks on black and ethnic minority communities.
Some Yemeni sailors remained managing the boarding houses and cafes in the area with their families. Boiling tensions resurfaced again in 1930 after the Great Depression. As a result of this, a riot broke out, where 15 Arabs were jailed and deported.
Some Yemeni sailors found better opportunities outside of England. Yet, when jobs were available again, Yemeni sailors were recruited during the Second World War to serve in both the Merchant Navy and the Royal Navy. These seamen not only made South Shields their home, but some 800 fought and died alongside the British in the conflict.
In modern times, however, South Shields is a harmonious place with many people from different backgrounds residing there. There is a thriving community of Yemenis around the Holborn estate.
It is argued that the successful integration of the Yemeni community is one of the key multiculturalism stories that has shaped the North East.
Written by Sofia Barton
About Sofia Barton
Sofia Barton is a multidisciplinary artist from the North East of England. Her work is often bright, colourful and inspired by her Punjabi heritage.
Sofia graduated from Edinburgh Napier University with a BA Hons in Photography and Film. Her practice has also involved painting murals, designing graphics and facilitating wellbeing workshops. Her work often explores hidden histories and cultural heritage. It has been exhibited with Spilt Milk Gallery, Level Centre, Wild in Art and BALTIC Centre for Contemporary Art.
Further reading
Great blog. My Grandad was one of the first wave Japanese immigrants to come to the north of east of England. At the time the Japanese community in the North East was bigger than that in London. It would be good if you did a blog on that
Thank you for documenting the South Asian Heritage in uk. The information about the markets was super interesting, I hope to read more on ethnic minority heritage in UK soon