Architecture Conservation

The Hidden History of Apethorpe

Apethorpe was built around 1470 for an aspiring courtier Sir Guy Wolston and remains one of the most complete high-status medieval houses surviving from the 15th century.  

The great country house of Apethorpe in Northamptonshire was sadly dilapidated in 2004 when English Heritage (now Historic England) began a programme of urgent repairs.

As work progressed, many exciting discoveries were made underneath floorboards, behind modern wall surfaces, inside ancient roofs, or hiding in plain sight. No matter how small, every finding deepened our understanding of the property and its illustrious owners.

Apethorpe was built around 1470 for an aspiring courtier, Sir Guy Wolston, and remains one of the most complete high-status medieval houses surviving from the 15th century. However, Wolston’s house was much masked and embellished by the ambitious architectural additions of his successors: the Elizabethan politician Sir Walter Mildmay, 13 generations of the Fane family (the Earls of Westmorland) and finally Sir Leonard Brassey.

On many occasions, the house at Apethorpe played host to royalty, but in the 20th century, it served as an approved school before declining to the point of ruin. Now weather-proof, it has reverted to private hands, and a new chapter in its history is about to unfold.

Here are 8 of our most intriguing discoveries:

1. A ‘grotesque’ wall painting

This wonderful ‘grotesque’ wall painting was covered by panelling around 1700. It decorated a room, probably the family’s Withdrawing Chamber, in the early 17th century, when Sir Anthony Mildmay owned the house.

Feature 3 DP152504 - Copy

2. Elaborate plaster ceilings

By comparing the detail of the elaborate plaster ceilings of Apethorpe with those of Blickling Hall in Norfolk, we could attribute them to the highly skilled master plasterer Edward Stanyon. He used the same moulds at both sites in the early 1620s.

Apethorpe Hall Plaster

3. Revealing a doorway

The removal of modern plaster revealed this doorway dating from 1622-4. It communicated between the King’s Chamber and an Inner Chamber.

This led to the Duke’s Chamber, where Prince Charles (later King Charles I) or George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, might have been lodged close to King James I.

Feature 6 DP068006

4. Drawings beneath the panelling

Drawings, including this coronet, were found beneath the Long Gallery panelling. The painter may have been practising a stencil, which would have been used to enrich the panelling or ceiling.

Apethorpe Hall, Apethorpe, Northamptonshire

5. Plaster friezes under the floorboards

Lifting the attic floorboards in the south range, we found two ornamental plaster friezes of 1622-24.

One belonged to the Great Chamber, and the other to the Withdrawing Chamber. Both were masked by new covings around 1740. They were left in place and are easier to feel than see or photograph.

Apethorpe Hall

6. A sculpture of a horse

A fine sculpture of a horse, branded on its flank with the Despencer fret (shown here), adorns Apethorpe’s stable.

Commissioned around 1653 by the horse-loving 2nd Earl of Westmorland, and perhaps depicting his horse ‘Spider’, it was hidden for many years by a garage roof.

Feature 10 DP060108

7. Vibrant Victorian Gothic wallpaper

A vibrant Victorian Gothic wallpaper lined the stairs to Sir Walter Mildmay’s Cock Loft, an attic suite created in the 1560s. Many other wallpaper fragments were recorded throughout the house.

Feature 12 DP067973

8. School finds

The floor voids throughout Apethorpe are littered with debris from St John’s School, the approved school that occupied the site from 1949 until 1982.

Findings reveal the main interests and preoccupations of the schoolboys and include scraps of poignant letters to family and loved ones.

Apethorpe Hall plans and finds

To learn more, look out for our new book, ‘Apethorpe: The Story of an English Country House’, published in 2016 by Yale University Press for the Paul Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art and Historic England.

Visits to Apethorpe Palace can be arranged through English Heritage.

Further reading

21 comments on “The Hidden History of Apethorpe

  1. Charlotte Keys

    For the non-UK readers–what is an “approved school”?

    • Hi Charlotte. In this context, an approved school is similar to a reform school, a residential institution which young people could be sent to by order of the court, usually due to committing offences.

      • Hi yes, Afraid so not as bad. I happened to be there for a while in 76-77. Great place. Any information email me.

  2. Is Apethorpe going to be open for tours at all this year?

    • Hi Neil. There aren’t any tours announced yet this year, but it is expected that the property will be open in the future. You can find more information on the English Heritage website http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/apethorpe-palace/

      • Thank you, I had been looking at that page but it appeared some of the info hadn’t been updated for a while so I wasn’t sure. We’ve just rejoined EH and would like to go as it’s only about 15 mins away from us – couldn’t manage it previously because of the kids. Looking forward to seeing it when it is opened.

  3. The Guardian also published an article yesterday about Apethorpe, including comments from the current owner. From the sounds of it, it should be rather grand when it reopens! https://www.theguardian.com/culture/2016/jun/13/red-barons-jacobean-apethorpe-palace-marks-its-rebirth-with-party

  4. Rosalind Lund

    Please do let us know when it will be open to visitors again. We went in about 2006 just after the roof had been restored and you were trying to sell the property

    • Hi Rosalind, thank you for your comment. We’ll likely post details on Facebook and Twitter when the property is open to the public.

  5. gillian sibley

    Hello
    I wonder if you could help me?
    Would it be possible to send me, word for word, the inscription written by James I over the fireplace in the Long Gallery of Apethorpe Palace? I have it translated into French and, although I have no problem in understanding the French translation, would love to know the original words that James used.
    Thank you in advance for your time and energy.

  6. Hi all, If I could be of any assistance regarding Apethorpe hall as was then. My name is Alan ,when apethorpe was an approve school I spent many months there as a naughty boy in the 1970’s. I loved this place. I know every nook and crevice of this beautiful house. At the time of my very long stay the room I slept in was king James 1 . Long gallery,Jakcobean ,west wing and kings wing were the 4 wings. George Kelly if you read this ,hello from Alan, came back to visit you and Mr coxhead around 10yrs ago. I left there in 77.

  7. Hi All,l was there in the sixties,(early67to late69)great place,got my education learned a great deal about growing up and have great memories,never forget Mr Groves,Mr Monroe,Mr Smith(smithy)Dodds the night watchman and of course Coxhead,loved this place must go back there!

  8. William Arnold

    My farther worked at St John’s around 1955/56. We moved to up-country Uganda after that. We lived in a staff house that was located on the right of the green as you came through the main gate. We were across from the metal work shop and some other buildings. Whilst we were there, there was a grounded “Spitfire” on a slight rise behind the staff houses. It was trucked away not long before we left the area. My Dad was Mr William (Bill) Arnold and he was a carpentry teacher. He loved the school but moved abroad to make a living wage.

    • Ian Towns

      remember your dad 55/56 when i was there .carpenter shop in old stables, ian

  9. David Williams

    I was there.
    I loved the place, that much would like to buy it, if I could.
    The book live and let die, wondered where that went.
    Me/we found many old passages in the place.
    The upper floor had a old theatre which was never used.

  10. The grounds were split by the guy who lives in apethorpe manor.
    He couldnt afford to keep the hall so moved into the manor house. He divided up the grounds so he had a, view of the lake and planted fast growing trees to block the view which was originally the halls view and grounds.
    Total destroyed the grounds for his own gain.
    He was something to do with hovercraft…!

    • Mrs Linda Perrie

      Yes, I had the same impression at a recent visit to Apethorpe about the Brasseys, planting all those trees as way of revenge to block the lake view even though their predicament was of their own doing.

  11. I was a young lad of 15 who had fractured a couple of laws and ended up at st johns school apethorpe in 1967. We never knew it at Apethorpe hall and really thought nothing of it’s history. But being sent there was the best thing that happened to me and put me on a path to a better life. I was able to complete my O and A levels in many subjects, we went away on many hiking and camping adventures, and some of us were lucky enough to complete the Nijmegen Marches in Holland with our own Air training Corp squadron. It was a shame when I heard about Apethorpe hall falling into a state of repair. I am 70 years of age now and I have lived in Australia for most of my life but, every now and then, I get online to find further news of the building and the fond memories I have of it… Cheers

  12. I was a young lad of 15 who had fractured a couple of laws and ended up at st johns school apethorpe. We never knew it at Apethorpe hall and really thought nothing of it’s history. But being sent there was the best thing that happened to me and put me on a path to a better life. I was able to complete my O and A levels in many subjects, we went away on many hiking and camping adventures, and some of us were lucky enough to complete the Nijmegen Marches in Holland with our own Air training Corp squadron. It was a shame when I heard about Apethorpe hall falling into a state of repair. Ihave lived in Australia for most of my life but, every now and then, I get online to find further news of the building and the fond memories I have of it… Cheers

  13. Kevin gostelow

    Is the Kings Head pub still open? i’m sure it was just outside the main entrance when I lived there in the mid to late 70’s. I remember George kelly, jeoff pyett? Mr & Mrs pullen (head teachers) at the then approved school.

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